If nothing else works you may need to use some kind of extension after all. Based on this issue and this answer and this one I did that:
$ mkdir CustomCSS && cd CustomCSS
$ cat > manifest.json << EOF
{
"name": "My Style Sheet",
"content_scripts": [
{
"matches": ["*://*/*"],
"css": ["Custom.css"]
}
],
"version": "1.0.0",
"description": "User StyleSheet replacement",
"manifest_version": 2
}
EOF
$ cat > Custom.css << EOF
::-webkit-scrollbar {
height: 12px;
width: 12px;
background: yellow;
}
::-webkit-scrollbar-thumb {
background: red;
-webkit-border-radius: 1ex;
-webkit-box-shadow: 0px 1px 2px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.75);
}
::-webkit-scrollbar-corner {
background: #000;
}
EOF
In chrome://extensions with developer mode on: Load unpacked extension -> choose path/to/CustomCSS
And that's it. It works. Red scroll bar on yellow background.
Checking chrome://memory reveals it uses ~1.8MiB of memory.
--
Ed:
If you want to override websites' styles you may try to use !important rule
background: red !important;